I really hate traveling during prime tourist season. Sure, you have a chance to meet many more people, but, you meet many more people. Whether you want to or not.
Traveling off season is better. The roads are clear, the drivers that are there generally know the roads and are not wandering around lost, and you are not jostling for position to park or see things you want to see. It is not without it's challenges however.
Since I left Luxembourg and found my way to the Rhone-Alps I have been riding nothing but incredibly twisty roads, and seeing magnificent scenery. Rocky mountains, Canyons, Gorges, Valleys. You name it. Every day I get up, hop on the bike and ride roads that I have found on bestbikingroads.com. I stop for the night, make dinner and plan the next day's twisty roads. I rode all around the best parts of France, then Andorra. Yes, Andorra is a country. A small one, but a country. Then into Spain. Then France. Then Spain, then, well, you get the picture.
I decided I needed to stop someplace for a few days. I wanted a place that was near roads that I would not be likely see if I was just trying to get from one place to another. I wanted to spend at least one day doing nothing. The ideal place would be quiet, have a kitchen so I could cook if I wanted, a nice view while sitting inside, and a place to sit outside if the weather cooperated. A nice comfortable apartment. It would also be within walking distance to a choice of restaurants and pubs, have at least one grocery store, and other amenities you only find in a decent sized village. I didn't think I would find a place where they speak English, but that's OK.
On Air BnB I found a place that seemed to fit the bill. It was a two floor apartment near a ski community. The description and reviews made it sound like the perfect place.
When I got there, I was..... less than impressed. For some reason it reminded me of a prison. It took me a bit to figure out why. Then it hit me... Every place was boarded up with storm shutters. Everyone except one. There were many buildings, most with 20 or 30 apartments. Some had a few cars outside. My building was empty. This did not bode well.
I called the number I was given to get the garage opened. A woman who only spoke Spanish showed up, opened the garage door and I rode into the underbelly of my building and down a long passageway to Garage # Ocho, which had it's own locking door.
The apartment was perfect, a fantastic view from the large glass wall of the living room. Comfortable chair to sit and fiddle with the computer while looking out at the view. A table and chairs outside. Things were really looking up.
Then I went into town. It was a short walk. Google gave me lots of options for restaurants. This place was loaded with them. Some were at hotels, some not. I waited until 7pm, as most places are not open earlier. Every place I walked by was closed. Every hotel I saw was closed. The first Grocery Store I went by was closed, until October 28th!!!! I was beginning to think that I would starve to death. I finally found a place with people in it. I ordered a pizza, as I did not think the other things on the menu would be very good at this tiny place. The pizza was a frozen pizza I think. Well, at least it was cheap, as was the wine, which was good.
The next day was rainy so I sat and tried to get things done on the computer. The view, even in the rain, was stunning. Later the sun came out So I decided to walk to the other grocery store. That was closed, probably for the rest of the month. On the way home last night I had gone by a place that had hamburgers, and simple meals and a lot of younger people hanging out. I went back there and they had pretty good bar food, plenty of lively people (the bartender spoke some English) and Eeepah. (IPA) Gourmet it was not, but good enough for me. I don't really need a lot of places to visit. If a town has one place that serves decent food and beer or wine, I am happy. I was happy.
I was happy except for one thing, I didn't have any eggs left for breakfast and there were no markets in town that were open. The nearest one out of town, IF it was open, was a 13 mile drive away. Fine for the future, but really sucky for tomorrow's breakfast. Fortunately I was able to get eggs from the bartender.
There is a sweet spot in traveling after the tourist traffic dies down, but before things close up for the season, or close up until the winter season starts. I am definitely NOT in the sweet spot right now.